Radio Imbibe

Episode 153: Seed Library NYC and the Mr Lyan Universe, with Ryan Chetiyawardana

Episode Summary

For this episode, cocktail bar impresario Ryan Chetiyawardana (familiarly known as Mr Lyan) talks about his latest venture, Seed Library NYC, and the approaches and philosophy connecting his bars in the U.S., the Netherlands, and the United Kingdom.

Episode Notes

Ryan Chetiyawardana opened his first bar, White Lyan, in London in 2013, the first in a growing universe of cocktail bars built on a foundation of creativity and sustainability. For this episode, the bartender familiarly known as Mr Lyan talks about his latest venture, Seed Library NYC, and about how all of his bars find their own distinct directions while staying rooted in a core creative philosophy.

Radio Imbibe is the audio home of Imbibe magazine. In each episode, we dive into liquid culture, exploring the people, places, and flavors of the drinkscape through conversations about cocktails, coffee, beer, spirits, and wine. Keep up with us at imbibemagazine.com, and on Instagram, Threads, and Facebook, and if you're not already a subscriber, we'd love to have you join us—click here to subscribe. 

Episode Transcription

Paul Clarke
Hey everybody, welcome back to Radio Imbibe from Imbibe Magazine. I'm Paul Clarke, Imbibe's Editor-in-Chief. And over the course of the 20 years that Imbibe has been in print, we've seen many, many bartenders and bar owners start with an initial concept, then gradually grow and evolve over the years. Maybe taking an approach or an idea or a skill set from one bar to another, gradually adjusting improving upon that starting notion. Or sometimes that initial concept becomes the basis for a larger network of different bars, each with its own identity, but each also connecting to the others through some kind of founding philosophy. 

Ryan Chetiawardana, who in the bar industry is commonly known as Mr. Lyan, is one such individual. With background, experience, and interests in the sciences, the arts, and philosophy, he's developed a creative identity centered around a dedication to ingredients, restless curiosity, and a commitment to sustainability. Starting with his initial bars in London, including White Lyan and Dandylyan, both currently closed, along with the current venues Lyaness and Seed Library, Ryan went on to take his distinctive approach to cocktail bars internationally. Including Super Lyon in Amsterdam and Silver Lyon in Washington, DC. This past fall, he introduced his second bar in the United States and his first in New York City, Seed Library, which takes the core concept of his original Seed Library Bar in London and transplants it to the US. 

But how does he maintain that commitment to his core philosophy as he continues to open bars as part of his expanding Mr. Lyan empire? For this episode, we're chatting with Ryan Chetiawardana about Seed Library in New York City, its connection to the other bars in his orbit, and how he continues to find interest and excitement in this growing world of cocktail bars. 

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Paul Clarke
Ryan, welcome to Radio Imbibe. 

Ryan Chetiawardana
Thank you, Paul. Very, very excited to be able to be here. 

Paul Clarke
Yeah, I'm delighted to have you on, and we wanted to have you on for a while, and we've had you in the magazine before, of course. But I wanted to chat with you a little bit more in depth about some of the projects you're working on right now, because you have been involved in many, many projects over the years. Most recently, of course, is the opening of Seed Library in New York City, which opened this past November. I'd like we could start there and then kind of move a little bit broader into the Mr. Lyan universe, if you will. So starting with Seed Library in New York, why did this seem like the right timing for entering the New York bar world? I mean, this is your first New York City venture. 

Ryan Chetiawardana 
It is. I mean, we've had such a long-standing relationship with the city. I mean, it's interesting. It's almost a bit of a full-circle moment, because when I first was talking about starting the business with my sisters, my sister Natasha was based in New York. And it was very much part of those initial discussions of going, would that make sense for us to open our first bar? And for a number of reasons, Natasha was moving back to London. I was moving from Scotland back to London, and we really wanted White Lyan to be our first concept. So, you know, it made sense for that to be in London. And it's kind of remained always in the background that we would do something in America and in New York City. And, you know, we did a little bit of work there. We actually did a project kind of concurrently with White Lyan at the Hudson Hotel. I suppose a bit of the test of the relationship that would kind of go on to become Dandylyan, actually. But, you know, we did a residency as part of Lyaness in 2019 with a very wonderfully over-the-top pop-up. But we'd always wanted to do something permanent. And, you know, have something that could feel part of the landscape. But I think sometimes timing, you don't get to really dictate yourself. And you respond to those opportunities. And I think that's where we've always enjoyed things. You know, it's lovely to be able to have an eye on something, but we never want to force an agenda. We never want something to feel either transported, cookie-cutted, or just, yeah, forced. And, you know, it just kind of really hit as the perfect timing. I think where we had gotten to in terms of some of our career, if we'd launched to New York at that beginning point, you know, as much as we loved the city, we loved the kind of scene across America, we weren't prepared for really understanding that. And actually, I feel so grateful that it kind of landed as the timing to do that now, when we've had experience with the bar that we've had in D. C. since 2020. You know, Silver Lyan's been amazing to kind of grow and understand, you know, a different kind of culture of drinking, a different approach. But New York's different to D. C. as well. So, you know, we needed that bit of, I suppose, growing up to be able to then really feel like it was the right time. And it was a, a confluence of things. It was the opportunity, it was the market, it was awesome. Our journey and our momentum, and it just really came up as this kind of wonderful opportunity. We had some local partners who were really excited. We had this amazing space, and it really felt kind of a perfect alignment of different threads and different timings, and it became a really beautiful, as I say, full circle moment for us. 

Paul Clarke
And I'm sure you've noticed, because the bar has been open for several months now, but New York City, of course, has a long-established cocktail culture. There's a lot of stuff going on. that you're coming up to be in the middle of, including some of the world's best bars are functioning there. With Seed Library, what are you contributing to the equation with opening this bar, and how does it fit into this kind of larger cocktail context within New York City? 

Ryan Chetiawardana
I mean, you're absolutely right. The bars in New York are world-renowned. You know, some of my favorite bars historically and in the current sense are in that city, and you know, it's really important to us. We do something that feels additive to the scene. We don't want to, you know, come in as outsiders and just shoehorn what we do elsewhere. We want to be able to learn from that location and create something that feels authentic for that audience. And, you know, it was really important to us that we did something for New Yorkers. And, you know, we spent a bit of time, we looked around the areas. We'd obviously had lots of friends doing amazing projects there. But we, we kind of found that there was a bit of an opportunity for us to marry some of the work that we've been doing across the last 13 years of Lyan to kind of really bring something in that, could complement and could be married to some of the kind of local sensibilities. So we, you know, it was interesting because it's the first time we've repeated a concept as well. We have a sister version of Seed Library in London, but it really felt like an opportunity to bring some of that of focus that we've been doing both across the company and in kind of the Seed Library space to marry it with that kind of local scene. And it wasn't just about local produce. It was about the way that people gathered. It was the space itself. It was the, you know, New York-like London had this, this kind of wonderful set of kind of almost tiny neighborhoods in amongst the kind of city and its own kind of boroughs as well. So, you know, there was this opportunity of looking at where we were in the kind of nomad area, seeing some of the neighbors that we had around us, looking to some of the businesses, some of the cultural spots and going, what could we bring that would add to that scene and could feel like something that that community could really embrace. And I'm, I'm so thankful to see that it, you know, it hit the ground running with that. And we've been very, very appreciative of all the support and yeah, the amazing welcome that we've had coming into town. 

Paul Clarke
As you mentioned, you have this long track record, 13 years with the various Lyan bars.

Ryan Chetiawardana
14 years now. 

Paul Clarke
14 years

Ryan Chetiawardana
14 years. Yeah. 

Paul Clarke
And with that kind of long track record, you've learned a lot of things. You've gotten a lot of directions. You mentioned the sister location in London for the New York City location, which is the more recent iteration. What aspects of the bar are tailored to the New York location, what aspects form some kind of thematic continuation with the First Seed Library and with the other bars in the Lyan universe? 

Ryan Chetiawardana
All of the bars are distinct from each other. They definitely play to their sense of location. There is a red thread that runs through them. I, I've loved hearing comments back from, um, from peers and from guests and from press about, I think the profile of our drinks, I think is, is very distinct. I think both in the approach that we bring, we bring in this idea of storytelling, we bring in this idea of, you know, a very human touch of how the, the team bring it to life. Uh, we have this very unique creative process of, of kind of marrying, um, I suppose our excitement with something that hopefully feels really accessible to people with a bit of playfulness in there. And all of the venues try and speak to their location. They try and speak to something that we think is, is kind of important in the social sense around that kind of moment. And, you know, since the first two venues, we've always built in a built-in room for them to evolve, but they also try and address something. And when we were opening the First Seed Library, it was on the back of the pandemic and really realizing that people needed something that felt, I suppose the antithesis of this digital world, this very plasticized approach to things, things very kind of like wrapped, and, and kind of like separated and devoid of their connection to where they were from and who crafted it or grew it or, or, or what kind of knowledge set had gone into it. And so we really wanted to, to kind of make it feel very warm, make it feel very welcoming, a sanctuary as a physical space. And you know, we saw a lot of those same themes echoed in New York as we did in London. And I think there is this I talk about the twinning between the two cities and particularly in a food and drink sense, there's been this kind of great relationship between both spaces. But I think there was this similar approach of a, a need for something that felt a little bit more organic. And, you know, looking at the space that we're in, there's these beautiful cultural institutions, you've got this incredible busyness of this part of town. And we just thought that there could be that same approach of having something that felt like a little bit of a retreat from that, something where you could kind of like duck away and have your space in it. It felt like you found something that was, know, really neighborhood and warm and had this wonderful kind of human touch to it. But you could feel this kind of, Almost fingerprint of something natural in- in every one of the elements, from the music to the decor to the drinks and, you know, we- we were really excited to bring that across, but to marry all of those, I suppose, emotional kind of, like, insights with the kind of local colour of New York. So the ingredients have obviously shifted, we've worked with local partners from a produce point of view to really kind of understand those things. Obviously the team are local, so their input to be able to control the service, the hospitality touches, the drinks themselves gets put through a New York lens. And even the decor, you know, there was elements of, I remember speaking with Yaku, who's designed our- our spaces, and, you know, I talked about it being this kind of organic retreat, and I kind of spoke about it as being, you know, nodding to some things where I'd kind of noticed some of those elements of hospitality being in bars in Japan, where there's lots of wood tones, the warmth of the sound fills the space, the hosting has this, the kind of really intimate feel. But some of the- the kind of nods in the decor kind of came through there, so I described it as being like a 70s Bond lair meets Kubrick, kind of a little bit of Space Odyssey, from it. So having a little bit of that modern, or I suppose, a view of modern from the 70s. So there's an element of this kind of mid-century modern that runs through it, similar colour palette, but it's all of tweaked to feel more New York as that version. So some of the touches, some of the lighting, you can feel that they're siblings, but then it's not just simply being transported. So we've really started to kind of take those sentiments, the DNA of what it feels to be Seed Library, but put it in a New York location, and that feels very apt for that concept, because the idea of Seed Library was always thinking about seeds as this wonderful repository of knowledge, but they grow differently depending on the location they're in. And we looked at that as a kind of creative spur for what we were doing with the cocktails, and this idea to be able to kind of imagine how things could grow up differently, along different pathways, along different journeys, but it also applied to kind of the idea of the space itself, how could it grow up in a different location in a different way, and you know, the other part of the word being about library, and, you know, them being public spaces where people can gather and share, you know, their social spaces, but you, it's about an exchange of knowledge. And so for us, coming to a city that we're super passionate about, to bring some of the things that we are proud of from our history, but really, it's about us learning from that new location and marrying it and creating something new and it being a space to kind of celebrate that exchange. 

Paul Clarke
Now, you mentioned local produce and local markets and things of that nature. Your first few bars were in London, and then you expanded into Washington DC several years ago and now into New York. As you branch out, as you're going to these new locations, how do you adapt your thinking about local seasonality, and bio regions, and ingredients available from those areas, and how do you bring those to bear? 

Ryan Chetiawardana
I mean, I think it helps that we're all geeks. I think we're really passionate about it. We've been entrenched in this industry for decades, and you know, Amsterdam was actually our first international bar. And, you know, we learned so much from going into a new scene there and trying to kind of embrace. And, you know, all of those influences don't just come from, you know, there's that immediate set that we look at. And, you know, I have a biology background, so I love reading into about, I suppose, the landscape aspects of a sense of place. But the team have got like a variety of different backgrounds and how we look at those things. can't simply just be about, okay, this is the produce that's available. We look at it from a social point of view. We look at it from a historical point of view. we try and do a ton of research and remain as curious as we can to really just kind of gather as much data as possible, and to kind of take a view on all of that information of going, could we authentically fit into this space? And, you know, what, within our approach and our excitement about this new location, can we kind of bring in a different kind of viewpoint to it? Because we're not going to pretend we're Dutch or American. You know, it's, it's not about this false narrative of going, you know, we're New Yorkers like you know it's it's it's not the case and that would be an inauthentic narrative but we are in love with the city and very fascinated by the things that are going on there and we we want to be able to kind of marry that excitement with some of the things that we've we've kind of brought with us um on our journey it's a lovely task I mean the there's so much opportunity to be inspired by everywhere every time we go to a new place you know there's something you're like oh my god this is this Want to be able to, to kind of embrace that produce or, or work alongside some of the local partners. But the danger is actually that we get so excited by places. We're like, oh, we can have bars here everywhere. Cause it's, uh, you know, it's just so. 

Paul Clarke
You have to stop somewhere. Yeah. 

Ryan Chetiawardana
Oh God, absolutely. There, there, there definitely is a, you know, and particularly with the way that we run our venues, we're very conscious of going, know, how can we, we balance that, the support for that local team? Yes, giving them the keys to be able to run with it and take ownership of it, but also not to just leave them high and dry once we've got it up and running. So, you know, it is really important to us about that continued evolution of it. The, you know, we always talk about the fact that, you know, openings are super tough, but they're, you're getting to the starting line, not the finish line. And, you know, it's from there that it starts to breathe and grow into itself. We, we used to joke with each other that it takes three years for a line bar to bed in, you know, they're, they're kind of weird. They do kind of unusual things. And, you know, we want to be able to kind of use that period to kind of grow and understand that location in a really honest way. So it does take a bit of time for them to, to really start kind of hitting their stride. You know, I'm thankful that they're, they work from the beginning, but I think we start to really see them as being part of that community after, you know, that little window where they're able to become very much part of that community. 

Paul Clarke
Now, from the beginning through all your bars, sustainability has been a central theme that you've focused on and in the cocktails you're making. You've had an opportunity to explore and refine many of your approaches and techniques over the years. How are you bringing this aspect to this newest venture in New York? And are there any distinct challenges that you're facing as you enter this new market? 

Ryan Chetiawardana
It's absolutely distinct challenges. And I think that's where we've grown into that topic. You know, I think we were so excited to be able to explore it in the early days because there wasn't that much kind of being talked about this 15 years ago when we were first doing some talks around the topic. And our approach to that has evolved hugely. But I think the way that we've really tried to understand it is it's, it's an education opportunity. It's, it's all about excitement and making people realize that doing good isn't a contradiction to, to excellence or deliciousness or fun. And, you know, each time we go to a new place, the name of the game is understanding the local problems. What do we need to be able to not just kind of transport? There are certain things that we've developed over the years where we're very good at using ingredients in a whole kind of like a complete manner. We've been very good at being able to streamline things. We, we look at that now from, from both a human and a kind of material point of view. You know, we, we folded those lessons that I suppose into our general DNA now. What we try and do is, is kind of look at where we are and go, how can we affect things in, in the best way possible? Because, you know, you know, there's going to be new challenges here. There's even down to some very simple things like the way that a location recycles changes massively. And, you know, the way in which we can kind of influence, there's different sensitivities to the language around a topic like this, the way that people embrace it. So how can we find ways to not make it, we never want to be worthy or to kind of lecture people about things. I don't think that's the way to kind of convince people about the importance of this topic. How can we find ways to, to kind of speak in a more, kind of, honed way that, that kind of brings the excitement that I think food and drink has such an opportunity to do around this topic? How can we tailor that to each location so people start to go, oh, amazing. This is from a local source that's using an amazing purveyor that's, you know, thinking about the environment and this is so cool. Rather than, oh great, now I, you know, I can, I can tick off the fact that I can feel good about my day for, for buying something that's a bit more, kind of environmentally conscious. To me it's, the goal is excitement, that's where the opportunity is, both for the trade and for the consumer, and ultimately that excitement will filter up to governmental level. And that's where the change has to come. So we try and kind of fold in as much as we can around, bringing, we, we talk about a company tagline as being good things. You know, how do we do good, approach good things, support good things, and then communicate that in a way that gets people excited enough to go, this is important. 

Paul Clarke
Now you opened in November, so it's been a little over six months now, and you just introduced the new menu. How has it been going? What's the actual on the ground experience been like in these months being open? 

Ryan Chetiawardana
It's really wonderful to see. I think it has helped that we've had such a long relationship with the city, but I don't think we quite expected to kind of hit the ground running as much as we did. You know, we opened the doors and we were, we're very thankful to have been, you know, super busy. We've, we've expanded the team. We've been able to kind of turn around the, the, the kind of second menu, which we saw as really important because, you know, the first menu, a lot, a lot of it was developed in, in London. the initial ideation had been happening as the bar had been building up. So to be able to work with the team and get their menu launched. Using much more of that kind of reception to where we are in the city has been really important. But seeing the reaction to it has been incredible. We were always terrified when we open a new thing. You're never sure how it's going to go and as much as you hear kind words and there's lovely support you never know what's actually going to translate. So being able to kind of see the reception we've had and, you know, we've already built up a lovely regular clientele and we've been able to partner with some local people that are doing brilliant things in the city, which is always what we want our spaces to be able to do. It does. It feels really exciting. And I'm, to see this kind of land so well, so quickly really encourages us to go, okay, how do we now build this into the kind of space that we want it to be and to really cement it as part of that local community. 

Paul Clarke
I want to go back a little bit, kind of way back before you came into the bar world. You were studying and you were curious about fields ranging from biology to philosophy to fine arts. How have each of your ventures over the years allowed you to return to those early interests and bring your knowledge into play? And how is your approach to seed library influenced by these different fields? How can you see these things coming to bear? 

Ryan Chetiawardana
That's a great question. And it is something that I I love studying those different things. I suppose the food and drink world was, was the perfect middle ground for all of that. It allowed me to, to kind of scratch my itch of some of the scientific rigor. It allowed me to, to kind of explore the kind of lateral thinking of creative horizons and being able to, to kind of deep dive into the thought behind it. I think it's, you know, I feel like I've had a cheat code to life because it just feels so excellent to be able to do these things that feel, you know, so exciting to me. I am really proud that I get to kind of explore each of those in the projects that we have. there'll be parts where you'll kind of push up different leaves at different stages. And, you know, we do a lot of work where we collaborate with real scientists. You know, I love the fact that I'm, I'm, I'm happy enough reading scientific papers and I apply the, the kind of rigor and methodology, but you know, we've, we've collaborated with the universities, Dr. Ariel Johnson, who I was just with in New York, she's a very dear friend and, you know, a collaborator of some 17 years or so. And Dr. Johnny Drane's an old school friend of mine. And this again, helped us on so many different projects and bringing in that, that expertise to allow the teams to kind of really feel confident to run in a new direction and to, to explore something that feels genuinely new and to kind of similarly on the kind of creative side, be kind of close to these communities that are showing us ways of looking at the world differently, ways of of exploring thought, exploring communications, you know, they might not be directly in our field, but they're, so inspiring to help us unlock different ways of thinking. And I get to do that from, from a personal point of view, but I, I feel so excited walking into each of the spaces and seeing those two lanes start to help unlock things for the teams. Because thing I probably most proud of is the way that we've been able fold every single member of the team into a creative journey. And their input is indelible on the company. You know, people who've been with us for a couple of days to people who've been with us 10 years get to input in a way that they are also sitting at the table. And it's not the legitimacy to the way that they get to input into that. So being able to kind of use that, I suppose the, the kind of balance of my background to help tee things up for the team is, has been really exciting. I think it's, it's nice to be able to show that, you know, those two lanes can coexist. They're not, you know, you don't fall in one or the other. Both people can kind of like jump across both sides and being able to go right. But we want to do things with a lot of care, a lot of curiosity. We do want to think about things deeply, but it's also got to be something that we're excited by and we think other people can be excited by and, you know, bringing in that humor and that playfulness to it as well. I think that breadth of things kind of covers the real heart of what we try and do at the company. I'm really glad that all of those different aspects get to coexist. 

Paul Clarke
Now you can do anything for a decade or more, and it becomes very easy to simply fall into familiar patterns or feel jaded with repetition. How do you continue to keep yourself engaged and excited and immersed in this professional world? And how do you bring that to bear on, on all of the different venues that you're operating? 

Ryan Chetiawardana
I think if you kind of remain open and you don't think that you've learned everything, you know, I think we're just getting started with some of our deep thinking into some of these different areas. It means that every day remains super exciting, you know, and that's such a honest reflection of where we're at. Every time I walk into the room with the teams, I walk out and I'm like, oh my God, this is so cool. You know, I have this giddiness of seeing some of the things that are going on and because we've put innovation at the heart of stuff and we've said we want to continue to evolve, we don't want to either rest on laurels or just repeat the same things because the world is evolving around us, it would be really arrogant if we're like, we're going to firmly stick these stakes in the ground and just kind of force people to kind of remain at this point with us. You know, everything else is changing, so as long as we continue to help with that, and On the other hand, we observe that and we reflect on it, we get to, kind of, move with this, kind of, wonderful momentum and that doesn't mean that we're constantly ripping things up and doing things anew. It's just allowing them space to, kind of, breathe into all of the subtle changes that are going on around us. You know, sometimes there's a seismic shift and gives an opportunity to kind of jump into something wholly new or we develop a new project that allows us to explore a different, kind of, territory, but ultimately it's always being creative and responsive. to, to, kind of, all of those changes around us. So I think it'd be very hard to get bored of things. You know, of course there is, I love the fact that we have multiple projects and there's many different things, and the spinning plates aspect, I think, suits my brain quite well. I like the, the kind of run around. But we, you know, we've also been putting a lot of work into making sure that there are structures for things. We love the fact that there's always new creative energy, but that doesn't matter. doesn't need to mean there needs to be chaos for the teams. And so, know, Alex, who's MD of the, the Lyan venues and, and Bob, who's MD of, Mr Lyan Studio, you know, they've done this incredible job of of finding ways of codifying some of the way that we've been working, you know, giving structure to this. And, you know, I think some people worry that takes away some of the romance of it, but actually, I learned this from art college. You can, you can teach creativity. There's ways of putting creative structures in that enables more for people, isn't take away. And, you know, being up to now be at the stage where we're maturing into some of this, this journey. And, you know, I'm so excited to see those foundations build, to allow us to kind of really explore new horizons in a, in a much more vigorous way. 

Paul Clarke
We're nearing the end of our time together. Any, any final thoughts, any, any parting thoughts for, for our audience? 

Ryan Chetiawardana
I think it's, it's really exciting to see what's happening in, in the world of food and drink globally at the moment. It's always been a tough industry. It's a very, very tough time. I think that's also where these type of brilliant people, these creative minds thrive. And, you know, I, I, I see it as a real kind of rallying call. There's a lot of times where people, you know, see those kind of tougher economic or the, the, the landscape of heaviness as being a reason to kind of close up and shut down. And I think it's, it's where we've always thrived as a community is to, to kind of support each other, share and actually really push that innovation to kind of get through those toughest moments. So I'm, I'm really, really proud of seeing what's going on at the moment and the support that's happening in our community. And I'm so both optimistic and excited to see what's, what's going to be coming up. 

Paul Clarke
Well, Ryan, thank you so much for taking the time to chat with us about your newest venture and about all of your ventures. And I look forward to chatting with you again sometime soon. 

Ryan Chetiawardana
Absolutely. Real pleasure to chat. Thank you. 

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Paul Clarke
You can find Ryan Chetiawardana online at MrLyan.com and check out Seed Library at SeedLibraryNYC.com. We've got that link for you in this episode's notes. And once again, this episode is sponsored by The Perfect Puree. Request a free sample of their new line of craft fruit syrups at perfectpuree.com/radioimbibe 

And that's it for this episode. Subscribe to Radio Imbibe on your favorite podcast app to keep up with all our future episodes. We've got tons of recipes and articles for you online at our website, imbibemagazine.com. Keep up with us day-to-day on Instagram, Pinterest, Facebook, and threads. And if you're not already a subscriber to the print and or digital issues of Imbibe, then let's get you on board in celebration of our 20th anniversary. Just follow the link in this episode's notes and we'll be happy to help you out. I'm Paul Clarke. This is Radio Imbibe. Catch you next time.